Monday, April 6, 2015

When Death enters your life, a good lawyer can make all the difference

While my posts are typically technical in nature, I started this site to provide a forum in which I could describe my solution for any problem which I encounter.  That being so, I wish to briefly share my experiences regarding an unexpected death in the family and to provide well-earned kudos to the lawyer who advised me with regards to the morass which is California Probate Law.

In my case, the decedent left no will, a financially complicated estate, and a challenging significant other.  While internet research was wonderful for identifying the what of the law, it was less helpful in explaining how and why a particular course of action should be taken.  I used Nolo's lawyer directory (here) to find local lawyers who specialized in California probate law.  Because I had time constraints, I initially chose another lawyer from the list who was immediately available.  However, that lawyer chose not to take on the work due his workload.  My second choice (again, due only to availability) was Gadi Zohar.  His professionalism, demeanor, and knowledge were invaluable and the reason I am writing this post.

The following is the review I submitted to Yelp.  I have also chosen to post it here because I have heard of too many situations (real and anecdotal) where valid and valuable Yelp reviews are not published.  Rather than risk that occurring, posting here seemed the next best thing.

Due to a recent death in the family, I needed to get advice about how to process the decedent’s estate.  I initially researched my questions using a copy of California’s probate law, but there was still uncertainty about how to proceed.  Using Nolo’s lawyer search feature, I found Gadi Zohar.  During an initial 30 minute call, Mr. Zohar listened carefully to my concerns and questions and responded with clear and understandable information.  For those topics which I had already researched, Mr. Zohar’s advice matched my findings.  This gave me the confidence to trust his advice for the topics which I had not yet researched.  Not only did he explain what the law said, he also advised me about how best to proceed.
Mr. Zohar’s approach is warm and professional, and appropriate when dealing with grieving relatives.  In addition, he did not use the call as an opportunity to up-sell his services, but instead was clear and up-front about the cost for his assistance, the type of assistance he could provide, and his availability.
I strongly recommend Mr. Zohar's services for anyone who needs legal help to deal with California's probate process.

Friday, February 13, 2015

Controller Housing for the 2-Stage Inkbird ITC-1000F



   

Introduction
There has been a gratifying explosion in the availability of low cost temperature controllers in the past couple of years from which the homebrewing and cooking communities have especially benefitted.  While there is certainly a great variety in the feature sets and build quality of these controllers, there is usually a solution that meets the user’s need and price point.  This article is not intended to address the benefits or limitations of the Inkbird ITC-1000F, it is merely a “give-back” to the brewing community to repay a small part of the knowledge I have gleaned from them.  My purpose with this project was to provide a robust package for controlling the temperature of a fermentation refrigerator, but this solution can readily be used for other purposes.


Disclaimer
This solution works for me, but you will need to assess your project’s needs, your skills, and your resources to determine whether it will work for you.  Power tools, tools with sharp edges, and working with line voltage are all involved – please be safe at all times and especially protect your vision and hearing.

Preparation
Obtain the parts listed in the table at the end of this article.  Assemble the necessary tools.  While a partial list of recommended tools is included at the end of this article, it is neither comprehensive nor exclusive – use what works for you.  That being said, I found that a sturdy workbench and clamps were invaluable for making the cuts in the enclosure.

Fabrication
Use the dial calipers to scribe cutout lines for the controller and the power outlet.  Make sure each are centered left-to-right, and top-to-bottom.  Use the dial calipers to scribe cutout lines for the power inlet.  Make sure it is positioned as shown in the picture and approximately 0.25 inches up from the base (this is to ensure that it doesn’t block or contact terminal connections for the controller).  Use the dial calipers to scribe a center line for the probe connector.  Make sure it is positioned as shown in the picture and centered top-to-bottom.

Clamp the enclosure securely to the workbench.  Use an appropriately sized bit to drill starter holes for cutting the openings for the controller, power outlet, and power inlet.  Using the jig saw at maximum speed, carefully cut along the scribe lines.  Dress the edges with the mill bastard file.

Sensor Connector
Drill a 7/16” through-hole for the panel mount connector (if not using the Radio Shack part, drill an appropriately sized hole).  Dress the edges – an X-Acto knife is useful for this.

Controller
Confirm it is possible to mount the controller using the included clamps and that it fits snugly.  Remove.

Power Inlet
Place the power inlet facing inwards with the GROUND lug towards the bottom of the enclosure.  Mark where the mounting holes must be drilled.  Drill the through-holes using a #32 bit.  Confirm it is possible to mount the inlet to the enclosure securely using the machine screws, washers, and machine screw nuts.  Disassemble.

Power Outlet
Once the hole for the power outlet has been cut in the enclosure, the outlet mounting holes must be located and drilled.  Remove the mounting screws from the outlet and place it in the enclosure hole with the socket facing inwards.  Mark the enclosure box where the two holes should be.  Clamp the enclosure securely to the workbench and drill the through-holes using a #27 bit.  The holes must go through the center of the enclosure’s internal ribs to ensure maximum mounting strength.  Using the snips, clip off the outlet’s mounting ears so that there is only 1/8” of the ear remaining on each side of the outlet.  (See before and after pictures)  This must be done because there is limited space in the enclosure due to the location of the internal ribs.  Correctly orient the outlet in the enclosure and confirm the screws fit properly.  Remove the screws and remove the outlet. 

Before and after ear removal
   
Power Outlet Brace
Clamp the enclosure securely to a workbench.  Cut the brace (aluminum flat angle) to fit snugly (but not too tight) as shown in the picture.  With the outlet in the enclosure, position the brace exactly in the center of the outlet with the ½” face contacting the back of the outlet.  Clamp the brace to the outlet so one jaw contacts the outer face of the outlet and the other jaw contacts the inner face of the brace.  The outlet will be loose in the enclosure cutout, but the brace and outlet should be securely fastened to each other.  Align the outlet in the cutout and while holding it in place with one hand, use the drill with the #27 bit to mark the brace through each of the two mounting holes.  Once the brace has been marked, unclamp the brace from the outlet.  Clamp the brace to the workbench and drill the through-holes.  Confirm it is possible to mount the outlet to the enclosure securely using the brace, machine screws, and machine screw nuts.  Disassemble.
Using overlapping strips of electrical tape, cover the outside faces of the brace to prevent accidental contact with the power wires.

Electrical Connections
  • Prepare the power outlet by clipping the tab between the two sockets on the LOAD side.  Cut two 4” lengths of black wire.  Strip to the correct length and attach one to each socket on the LOAD side of the outlet.  Cut a 6” length of white wire, strip it, and connect it to the NEUTRAL side of the outlet.  Cut a 6” length of green wire, strip it, and connect it to the GROUND screw of the outlet.  At the other end of the green wire, strip it to the correct length and crimp on a blue disconnect.
  • Cut a 4” length of black wire.  Strip to the correct length and attach to the #1 position of the controller.  Cut a 4” length of white wire.  Strip to the correct length and attach to the #2 position of the controller.  
  • Cut two 3” lengths of black wire.  Strip to the correct length and attach one to the #5 position of the controller and attach the other one to the #7 position of the controller.

Mount the power outlet in the enclosure so that the black wires are below the brace and the white and green wires are above the brace (see the picture).  Mount the power inlet.  Mount the sensor connector.  Mount the controller.
  • Cut a 4” length of black wire.  Strip to the correct length and crimp on a blue disconnect.  Connect the blue disconnect to the LOAD lug of the power inlet.
  • Connect the green wire disconnect to the GROUND lug of the power inlet.
  • Strip to the correct length the white wires from the power outlet and the #2 position of the controller and crimp on a yellow disconnect.  Connect the yellow disconnect to the NEUTRAL lug of the power inlet.
  • Strip to the correct length the black wires from the load lug of the power inlet and the #1, #5, and #7 positions of the controller and secure them with the yellow wire nut. 
  • Strip to the correct length and connect the COOLING black wire from the power outlet to the #8 position of the controller.
  • Strip to the correct length and connect the HEATING black wire from the power outlet to the #6 position of the controller.
  • Cut a 5” length of the bell wire, strip to the correct length and solder one wire to each lug of the sensor connector.  Strip the other end of the bell wire to the correct length and attach one wire each to the #3 and #4 positions of the controller.

Finishing Up
Once all parts are mounted and all connections are made, inspect the assembly to ensure there are no loose wires and there are no bare wires contacting each other.  Attach the Inkbird sensor wires to the male sensor plug by soldering.
Connect the sensor plug to the sensor connector.  Connect the power cord to the controller’s power inlet.
Configure the controller’s parameters and confirm the heating and cooling relays energize as intended.

Parts List
Qty.
Part
Vendor
Number / SKU
Cost
Source
1
ITC-1000F
Inkbird
ITC-1000F
$15.99
Amazon
1
PROJECT ENCLOSURE (6X4X2")
Radio Shack
270-1806
$5.19
Radio Shack
1
SIZE N PANEL-MOUNT COAXIAL DC POWER JACK
Radio Shack
274-1576
$3.49
Radio Shack
1
SIZE N COAXIAL DC POWER PLUG
Radio Shack
274-1573
$1.99
Radio Shack
1
IEC320 C14 Inlet Power Plug Socket AC 250V 10A
Uxcell
S14061100AM0481
$0.67
Amazon
2
#4-40 x 3/8 in. Internal Hex Flat-Head Cap Screws
n/a
SKU # 223020
$0.54
Home Depot
2
#4-40 Stainless Machine Screw Nuts
n/a
Internet # 203436213
$0.59
Home Depot
2
#4 Stainless-Steel Flat Washer
Hillman Group
Internet # 204794583
$0.18
Home Depot
2
#6-32 Stainless Steel Machine Screw Nut
n/a
SKU # 325216

$0.59
Home Depot
2
#6-32 x 1-1/2 in. Phillips-Slotted Round-Head Machine Screw
n/a
SKU # 528373
$0.39
Home Depot
1
3/4 in. x 1/2 in. x 36 in. Aluminum Flat Angle
1/16 in. thick
Everbilt
SKU # 550764
$4.27
Home Depot
24”
Electrical tape
n/a
SKU # 470722
$0.50
Home Depot
1
Wire Nut (Yellow)
n/a
SKU # 623531
$0.05
Home Depot
1
Decora 15 Amp Duplex Outlet – White
Leviton
SKU # 627976
$2.28
Home Depot
1
Yellow 0.250 F-Disconnects
Gardner Bender
Internet # 202522694
$0.11
Home Depot
2
Blue 16-14 AWG 0.250 in. Disconnect F TAB
Gardner Bender
Internet # 202522639
$0.14
Home Depot
6”
20-2 Bell Wire Twisted
Southwire
Internet # 204725217
$0.12
Home Depot
2’
14/2 NM-B Indoor Residential Electrical Wire
Cerrowire
SKU # 908401
$0.96
Home Depot
1
6 Foot IEC Power Cord
CES
68-2206
$5.09
Amazon







Total


$43.14


Tool List (partial)
Tool
Example
Drill / screwdriver
DeWalt DCD790D2
Jig saw
DeWalt DCS331
Metal blade for jig saw
Bosch T118A
Trigger clamps
DeWalt DWHT83140
Wire stripper
Irwin 2078300
Dial caliper
Fowler 72-008-706
Mill bastard file
Allied Tools 63210
Straight cut aviation snips
Stanley FatMax 14-563


Monday, August 12, 2013

Container for Sanitizing Long Brewing Equipment

Sanitizing equipment used in homebrewing is a fundamental part of the brewing process.  Difficulties arise when trying to sanitize long equipment such as stirring spoons, mash paddles, wine thieves, thermowells, and O2 wands.  Even the tallest buckets sold by companies such as MoreBeer are insufficient for the task.  To date I have muddled through sanitizing this type of equipment by sanitizing one end and then reversing it to sanitize the other end.  I've not had any infections by following this regimen, but I've never been satisfied with the process.  Having recently redesigned my conical fermenter to accommodate an immersion chiller from Brewhemoth, the issue became much more important.  Given the tight coils and the length of the chiller, and the diameter of the tri-clamp cap, having an appropriate sized container for cleaning and sanitizing the chiller was unavoidable.  I determined the optimum sized container usable for all the long equipment I own would be 6" diameter and greater than 26.5" long.  For durability, price, ease of fabrication, and chemical resistance to base (PBW) and acid (Star San), PVC appeared to be the best choice.

My initial research at my local Lowe's and Home Depot yielded unsatisfactory results.  Home Depot carries no 6" diameter PVC, and Lowe's only carries 2' sections of 6" PVC and no fittings.  To help the prototyping process, I purchased one of the sections from Lowe's.
Exhaustive research on the internet resulted in a greater selection of both pipe and fittings, but the material cost, shipping cost, or a combination of the two was prohibitively expensive.
The internet is not very helpful when trying to source locally sold items, so I "let my fingers do the walking".  A series of phone calls with referrals eventually led me to a couple of local suppliers.  While the price per foot from these vendors was much better, and the lack of shipping costs also helped lower the total cost, it was necessary to buy 20' sections which drove the total cost up to almost the same as internet pricing.

With my PVC pipe from Lowe's in hand, I visited one of the local vendors (Corix Water Products) which had the lowest fitting prices.  They stock a slip cap with a flat profile which was perfect for one end of the pipe.  They also stock a slip coupling.  When the cap, pipe, and coupling are assembled using standard plumbing PVC cement, the overall length of the container is 28".  Since the total cost for all parts was less than $30 and I met my design parameters, I consider this to be an effective solution.  A better solution is if eight brewers each want a sanitizing container.  In this case, it is only necessary to buy a 20' section of pipe and eight caps from Corix.  The per unit price before tax is $10.38.

My solution
Qty.UnitDescriptionSupplierPart No.Price
1 ea. NDS 6"  x 2' PVC Basin Lowe's 110875$15.27
1 ea. 6" Slip Cap Corix SFSW447060 $4.75
1 ea. 6" Slip Coupling with Stop Corix SFSW428060 $5.40

Group solution (to make eight 30" containers)
Qty.UnitDescriptionSupplierPart No.Price
1 ea. 6" x 20' Green SDR35        Corix SP43506$45.00
8 ea. 6" Slip Cap Corix SFSW447060 $4.75

Corix is located at 3750 Bassett Street, Santa Clara, CA 95054 (408-988-3311).  Zavier Rosales gave excellent customer service and said he would be happy to help other homebrewers.  

The finished product:


Friday, April 15, 2011

Bulk download of images from Flickr

It frustrates me when a company provides a service, but doesn’t support user behavior that would logically ensue from using the service. A case in point is the Flickr photo sharing site. According to their own mission statement (http://www.flickr.com/about/), they “want to help people make their photos available to the people who matter to them...” and they “...want to get photos and video into and out of the system in as many ways as we can...

A logical assumption is that bulk downloading of photos posted by one’s friends would be supported. However, this is not the case and it was a source of frustration to me and others (if the results of a simple Google search are to be believed). Luckily, my Google search resulted in a number of promising leads.

FlickrDown
The first I tried was to use FlickrDown created by greggman (http://blog.greggman.com/blog/flickrdown/). While the posts that led me to his site were a few years old, I hoped that it would mean a new and improved version would be waiting for me. Unfortunately, the first thing that greeted me was the following warning
Undaunted, I hoped that the blog was stale and that the issue with Flickr had been resolved. I followed a link on the page to the download site (http://sourceforge.net/projects/flickrdown/files/) , downloaded FlickrDown.installer2.43.exe , and installed the software. The installation itself was a breeze with a couple of clicks for the default options and the application launched.
The application GUI is simple and intuitive
I entered my email address and was presented with the error
I then entered my user name and received the same error. At that point I accepted that greggman’s warning was still valid and I would get no further using his software. Happily, removing the software was as easy as installing it and I was on to the next solution.
Firefox extension
My next attempt was to use a Firefox extension created by Jason Ting and available from his site JZ*LABS (http://www.jzlabs.com/). The current version was Flickr Original 1.0.7 for Firefox (http://www.jzlabs.com/2008/12/16/firefox-extension-flickr-original/). Clicking on the link started the Firefox extension installation
Once the installation was complete and I had restarted Firefox, I went to my Flickr account to try downloading photos. The first problem I encountered was that the extension does not allow bulk downloads. However, I was willing to tolerate that if I could download each picture with two mouse clicks. I right-clicked on an image to bring up the following menu,
left clicked on the “Download Original Flickr Image (Y)” option, and got the following error:
Repeated attempts on other photos, in other sets, and from different people gave the same result. I uninstalled the extension, restarted Firefox, and continued my search.
Downloadr
My third attempt was and application called Downloadr available from (http://janten.com/downloadr/).
Installation of this application was also straightforward and you are warned ahead of time that you will also need .NET 3.5 and Windows Installer 3.1.
The Downloadr GUI is also simple and intuitive.
After entering my Flickr user name and clicking the search button, I was presented with the six images in my account that are publicly available. Knowing I was missing something, I searched through the menu options until I found the option to “Authenticate”.
Clicking the “Authenticate” option opened an Information dialog.
Clicking “OK” opened a Flickr web page.
Since I specifically asked for this linking, I clicked the “NEXT” button on the right hand side. This opened another Flickr web page where I clicked “OK, I’LL AUTHORIZE IT”.
The last web page that opened was welcome both because my authorization was successful and because Flickr provides an easy way to revoke authorization at any time.
At last I was ready to try bulk downloading. I clicked the “Set” tab in Downloadr, entered a friend’s “Username”, and clicked the “Search” button. When I selected one of the sets that appeared and clicked the “Search” button again, thumbnails of the images appeared. At this point it is not intuitive how to download the images. It is necessary to left click in the image field and then type “Ctrl-A” to select all the images. At that point you can click the “Download selected” button, select your destination, and the transfer will begin. My first attempt was 159 images for a total download size of 58.7MB. The transfer occurred flawlessly and required no further interaction from me.
Bulkr (updated on 03APR2013)
As an infrequent user of Flickr, I had no reason to bulk download again until recently.  Since originally writing this blog, I have migrated from Windows XP to Windows 7.  When I attempted to install Downloadr, I received a system warning that the executable contained code which would put my computer at risk.  Being risk averse, I cancelled the installation and went looking for another solution.  I quickly found a reference to the Flicker AppGarden.  A search for "download" let me to Bulkr which has received many positive reviews.   Installation of Bulkr was straightforward and it also automatically installed the required AdobeAir application.  Encouraged, I launched Bulkr, identified a set of photos a friend had posted, and pasted the link into Bulkr.  Unfortunately, I could not bulk download because one needs the paid version to see more than a fraction of available sets.  I suppose if one is a regular user of Flickr, the $39 lifetime upgrade to Pro is worth it.  As an infrequent user, I find the price too steep.  It would have been kind of the Bulkr creator to provide a trial version which limits the total number of sets which can be downloaded rather than arbitrarily selecting a subset of the available sets.


Conclusion
I find it strange that Flickr would provide a mission statement and an API that promote the development of this type of application, but would not provide the solution themselves. To that end, I greatly appreciate that there are those who are technically competent and highly motivated to create solutions. Efforts like Janten’s deserve to be rewarded either through positive reviews or financially. This blog serves the former, and I had no hesitation using the donation link Janten provides to satisfy the latter.