Introduction
There has been a gratifying explosion in the availability of
low cost temperature controllers in the past couple of years from which the
homebrewing and cooking communities have especially benefitted. While there is certainly a great variety in
the feature sets and build quality of these controllers, there is usually a solution
that meets the user’s need and price point.
This article is not intended to address the benefits or limitations of
the Inkbird ITC-1000F, it is merely a “give-back” to the brewing community to repay
a small part of the knowledge I have gleaned from them. My purpose with this project was to provide a
robust package for controlling the temperature of a fermentation refrigerator,
but this solution can readily be used for other purposes.
Disclaimer
This solution works for me, but you will need to assess your
project’s needs, your skills, and your resources to determine whether it will
work for you. Power tools, tools with
sharp edges, and working with line voltage are all involved – please be safe at
all times and especially protect your vision and hearing.
Preparation
Obtain the parts listed in the table at the end of this
article. Assemble the necessary
tools. While a partial list of
recommended tools is included at the end of this article, it is neither
comprehensive nor exclusive – use what works for you. That being said, I found that a sturdy
workbench and clamps were invaluable for making the cuts in the enclosure.
Fabrication
Use the dial calipers to scribe cutout lines for the controller
and the power outlet. Make sure each are
centered left-to-right, and top-to-bottom.
Use the dial calipers to scribe cutout lines for the power inlet. Make sure it is positioned as shown in the
picture and approximately 0.25 inches up from the base (this is to ensure that
it doesn’t block or contact terminal connections for the controller). Use the dial calipers to scribe a center line
for the probe connector. Make sure it is
positioned as shown in the picture and centered top-to-bottom.
Clamp the enclosure securely to the workbench. Use an appropriately sized bit to drill
starter holes for cutting the openings for the controller, power outlet, and
power inlet. Using the jig saw at
maximum speed, carefully cut along the scribe lines. Dress the edges with the mill bastard file.
Sensor Connector
Drill a 7/16” through-hole for the panel mount connector (if
not using the Radio Shack part, drill an appropriately sized hole). Dress the edges – an X-Acto knife is useful
for this.
Controller
Confirm it is possible to mount the controller using the
included clamps and that it fits snugly.
Remove.
Power Inlet
Place the power inlet facing inwards with the GROUND lug towards the bottom of the enclosure. Mark
where the mounting holes must be drilled.
Drill the through-holes using a #32 bit.
Confirm it is possible to mount the inlet to the enclosure securely
using the machine screws, washers, and machine screw nuts. Disassemble.
Power Outlet
Once the hole for the power outlet has been cut in the
enclosure, the outlet mounting holes must be located and drilled. Remove the mounting screws from the outlet
and place it in the enclosure hole with the socket facing inwards. Mark the enclosure box where the two holes
should be. Clamp the enclosure securely
to the workbench and drill the through-holes using a #27 bit. The holes must go through the center of the
enclosure’s internal ribs to ensure maximum mounting strength. Using the snips, clip off the outlet’s mounting
ears so that there is only 1/8” of the ear remaining on each side of the
outlet. (See before and after
pictures) This must be done because there
is limited space in the enclosure due to the location of the internal ribs. Correctly orient the outlet in the enclosure and
confirm the screws fit properly. Remove
the screws and remove the outlet.
 |
| Before and after ear removal |
Power Outlet Brace
Clamp the enclosure securely to a workbench. Cut the brace (aluminum flat angle) to fit
snugly (but not too tight) as shown in the picture. With the outlet in the enclosure, position
the brace exactly in the center of the outlet with the ½” face contacting the back
of the outlet. Clamp the brace to the outlet
so one jaw contacts the outer face of the outlet and the other jaw contacts the
inner face of the brace. The outlet will
be loose in the enclosure cutout, but the brace and outlet should be securely fastened
to each other. Align the outlet in the
cutout and while holding it in place with one hand, use the drill with the #27
bit to mark the brace through each of the two mounting holes. Once the brace has been marked, unclamp the brace
from the outlet. Clamp the brace to the
workbench and drill the through-holes. Confirm
it is possible to mount the outlet to the enclosure securely using the brace,
machine screws, and machine screw nuts.
Disassemble.
Using overlapping strips of electrical tape, cover the
outside faces of the brace to prevent accidental contact with the power wires.
Electrical Connections
- Prepare the power outlet by clipping the tab between the two sockets on the LOAD side. Cut two 4” lengths of black wire. Strip to the correct length and attach one to each socket on the LOAD side of the outlet. Cut a 6” length of white wire, strip it, and connect it to the NEUTRAL side of the outlet. Cut a 6” length of green wire, strip it, and connect it to the GROUND screw of the outlet. At the other end of the green wire, strip it to the correct length and crimp on a blue disconnect.
- Cut a 4” length of black wire. Strip to the correct length and attach to the #1 position of the controller. Cut a 4” length of white wire. Strip to the correct length and attach to the #2 position of the controller.
- Cut two 3” lengths of black wire. Strip to the correct length and attach one to the #5 position of the controller and attach the other one to the #7 position of the controller.
Mount the power outlet in the enclosure so that the black
wires are below the brace and the white and green wires are above the brace
(see the picture). Mount the power inlet. Mount the sensor connector. Mount the controller.
- Cut a 4” length of black wire. Strip to the correct length and crimp on a blue disconnect. Connect the blue disconnect to the LOAD lug of the power inlet.
- Connect the green wire disconnect to the GROUND lug of the power inlet.
- Strip to the correct length the white wires from the power outlet and the #2 position of the controller and crimp on a yellow disconnect. Connect the yellow disconnect to the NEUTRAL lug of the power inlet.
- Strip to the correct length the black wires from the load lug of the power inlet and the #1, #5, and #7 positions of the controller and secure them with the yellow wire nut.
- Strip to the correct length and connect the COOLING black wire from the power outlet to the #8 position of the controller.
- Strip to the correct length and connect the HEATING black wire from the power outlet to the #6 position of the controller.
- Cut a 5” length of the bell wire, strip to the correct length and solder one wire to each lug of the sensor connector. Strip the other end of the bell wire to the correct length and attach one wire each to the #3 and #4 positions of the controller.
Finishing Up
Once all parts are mounted and all connections are made,
inspect the assembly to ensure there are no loose wires and there are no bare
wires contacting each other. Attach the Inkbird
sensor wires to the male sensor plug by soldering.
Connect the sensor plug to the sensor connector. Connect the power cord to the controller’s
power inlet.
Configure the controller’s parameters and confirm the
heating and cooling relays energize as intended.
Parts List
Qty.
|
Part
|
Vendor
|
Number
/ SKU
|
Cost
|
Source
|
1
|
ITC-1000F
|
Inkbird
|
ITC-1000F
|
$15.99
|
Amazon
|
1
|
PROJECT ENCLOSURE (6X4X2")
|
Radio Shack
|
270-1806
|
$5.19
|
Radio Shack
|
1
|
SIZE N PANEL-MOUNT COAXIAL DC POWER JACK
|
Radio Shack
|
274-1576
|
$3.49
|
Radio Shack
|
1
|
SIZE N COAXIAL DC POWER PLUG
|
Radio Shack
|
274-1573
|
$1.99
|
Radio Shack
|
1
|
IEC320 C14 Inlet Power Plug Socket AC 250V 10A
|
Uxcell
|
S14061100AM0481
|
$0.67
|
Amazon
|
2
|
#4-40 x 3/8 in. Internal Hex Flat-Head Cap Screws
|
n/a
|
SKU # 223020
|
$0.54
|
Home Depot
|
2
|
#4-40 Stainless Machine Screw Nuts
|
n/a
|
Internet # 203436213
|
$0.59
|
Home Depot
|
2
|
#4 Stainless-Steel Flat Washer
|
Hillman Group
|
Internet # 204794583
|
$0.18
|
Home Depot
|
2
|
#6-32 Stainless Steel Machine Screw Nut
|
n/a
|
SKU # 325216
|
$0.59
|
Home Depot
|
2
|
#6-32 x 1-1/2 in. Phillips-Slotted Round-Head Machine Screw
|
n/a
|
SKU # 528373
|
$0.39
|
Home Depot
|
1
|
3/4 in. x 1/2 in. x 36 in. Aluminum Flat Angle
1/16 in. thick
|
Everbilt
|
SKU # 550764
|
$4.27
|
Home Depot
|
24”
|
Electrical tape
|
n/a
|
SKU # 470722
|
$0.50
|
Home Depot
|
1
|
Wire Nut (Yellow)
|
n/a
|
SKU # 623531
|
$0.05
|
Home Depot
|
1
|
Decora 15 Amp Duplex Outlet – White
|
Leviton
|
SKU # 627976
|
$2.28
|
Home Depot
|
1
|
Yellow 0.250 F-Disconnects
|
Gardner Bender
|
Internet # 202522694
|
$0.11
|
Home Depot
|
2
|
Blue 16-14 AWG 0.250 in. Disconnect F TAB
|
Gardner Bender
|
Internet # 202522639
|
$0.14
|
Home Depot
|
6”
|
20-2 Bell Wire Twisted
|
Southwire
|
Internet # 204725217
|
$0.12
|
Home Depot
|
2’
|
14/2 NM-B Indoor Residential Electrical Wire
|
Cerrowire
|
SKU # 908401
|
$0.96
|
Home Depot
|
1
|
6 Foot IEC Power Cord
|
CES
|
68-2206
|
$5.09
|
Amazon
|
Total
|
$43.14
|
Tool List
(partial)
Tool
|
Example
|
Drill / screwdriver
|
DeWalt DCD790D2
|
Jig saw
|
DeWalt DCS331
|
Metal blade for jig saw
|
Bosch T118A
|
Trigger clamps
|
DeWalt DWHT83140
|
Wire stripper
|
Irwin 2078300
|
Dial caliper
|
Fowler 72-008-706
|
Mill bastard file
|
Allied Tools 63210
|
Straight cut aviation snips
|
Stanley FatMax 14-563
|
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